Suffolk Revisited

IMG_0338We just returned from a rainbow-filled weekend at the Suffolk Coast. Some of you may remember that we went to Suffolk on a whim over the summer and absolutely loved it, so after the past few weeks of chaotic international travel and school field trips, a relaxing four days in Suffolk seemed the right choice.

We also pulled out Andrew’s old camera and I think it worked fairly well!

Our trip to Suffolk in words and pictures: 

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Go to Malta!

Each day in Malta is met with both familiarity and surprises.  Familiar because the routine looks about the same: beach, sight seeing, beach, dinner, activity, and surprising because each new beach is more beautiful than the last, each new sight is older than anything you’ve ever seen (probably), each new street is hidden with magical secrets, and every restaurant serves fresh caught fish from about 100 feet away.  Malta is our ideal vacation spot so here’s how we spent eight beautiful days on this tiny, lesser-known Mediterranean island.

Beaches (click on any picture to see slideshow)

Going to the beaches in Malta was my favorite thing to do.  I can honestly say, that swimming in Dwejra Bay was one of the best experiences of my life.  We first went to the Azure Window and were disappointed with the amount of tourists and blasting music we came across there.  But we were really hot, so we walked a little ways around a cliff and looked upon the most glorious bay I have ever seen!  The bay was far down below where we were standing, but there was one person swimming across the large body of water and I knew I had to get in there!  By some weird miracle, I had my goggles with me too.  So we hiked down the hundred of stone steps until we rached some of the more friendly rocks at the bottom of bay and I jumped in.  It was very deep water, as I could see the gorge below me!  It was almost scary, but not scary enough to keep me from swimming in that water.

Although Dwejra Bay is hard to get to, “The most difficult to get to beach award winner” is San Blas Bay.  There is actually a paved road to the bottom of the beach, but it was the steepest, narrowest road I have ever seen so we parked at the top of the hill.  As we  walked down, I slipped and fell twice.  Finally, when we reached the bottom, we saw a jeep taking people up the hill for £2 PER PERSON.  His jeep simply said “Up the Hill” on the back (shown above) and we said, “we’ll never pay that guy money to take us up the hill!” However, after a relaxing hour on the beautiful golden beach, we caved in and sat in the back of this man’s jeeps for the most harrowing 3 minutes on Gozo!

The beach we returned to twice was Riviera Beach or “Ghajn Tuffieha Bay.”  This beach has become more popular the last few year, with a Radisson popping near its shores, but it still has the feel of a hidden treasure that many tourists don’t visit, probably due to the hundreds of stairs you must descend in order to reach the sand.  This has one of the largest swimming areas and you can pretty much stand all of the way out to the buoys.  Andrew and I spent two days here, eating Ftira and alternating between sea and lounge chair.  On most of the beaches in Malta, you can lay down your towel, or you an rent an umbrella and lounge chair for a very cheap price of about £3.

Paradise Beach was a little more rowdy, but easier to get to as the stairs are fewer and more gradual.  There are also some good waves at this beach.

Basically, we rented a car, put on our swimsuits and spent days driving around both islands (Gozo and Malta).  If we saw a beach we liked, we pulled in for a dip.  If we saw a church we wanted to see, then we threw on some clothes and a scarf and went inside.  Luxury travel!

Cities and Culture (click on any picture to see slideshow)

Some impressions of the sights from my journal entries in order left to right, top to bottom:

Mosta Dome.  “In WWII a church full of people had a literal bomb dropped on them.  The bomb crashed through the dome of this cathedral, hit the floor and rolled down the aisle.  No one was hurt.”

Wandering the streets.  “Andrew and I walked around Valetta and saw the most amazing views of the harbors and fortresses.  Sand, Stone, Windswept, Ornate Side Streets.”

Vittoriosa.  “Every morning in Valetta starts with chimes 10 minutes to 8am followed by loud church bells at 8am followed by fireworks and car alarms at 9am.  These sounds are coming from Vittoriosa, a town across the harbor that is having its Saint Celebration and for some reason they need to have fireworks every morning.”

Hagar Qim Temples.  “5,000 year old temples on a sea cliff.  At the solstices and equinoxes, the sun rays come through carefully places holes to create a perfect beam of light.  No one knows for sure why these structures are here.  Some say temples, others say gathering spots.  The specialness of these temples cannot be described.”

Harbor Traveling.  To get to any other city such as Salima, St. Julian, or Vittoriosa, you should take the harbor boats.  It’s fast and provides great views of the cities.

Marsaxlokks.  This little village is lined with very simple looking restaurants that serve fresh fish from that morning or day.  It’s everyone for themselves here, as you have to pick out the fish you want and sit at a table with other people, but it’s totally worth it and fun too!

Modern Dance Show.  We heard about the ballet dancer from “Fame” having a special two night show in Malta so we bought tickets.  The show was mediocre, but the setting was amazing!  it was a full moon and it rose over the stage as the dancers did their thing.  Outdoor theaters are the best!

Wine Festival.  Unexpectedly, we stumbled upon the Malta Wine Festival which showcased wines from all over the island.  We ate a hearty dinner of Rabbit and Gnocchi and then watched a really bad rock concert!  What a blast!

Mdina.  It’s like no place I have ever seen!  This is a walled city with really tall buildings so you can only ever see a tiny strip of sky.  We ate lunch overlooking the city all the way out to the beach (and this is in the center of the island!)

Madonna.  There are numerous Madonnas on Malta, but why not pull over and take a picture of everyone you see?

Food

Before we went to Malta, we were fortunate enough to have our friend, Joy, tell us all about her lovely dining experiences.  Here are the links to the best restaurants we found (with Joy’s help) in Malta.  Notice how hardly any have real websites!!! I love this place!

Ta’Rikardu

Il-Bukkett

The Harbour Club

Malata

Fontanella

Nenu The Artisan Baker

Malta is so tourist friendly without being over-touristy.  If you just want to go lay on the beach, that’s fine, and this is a perfect place to do that, however, if you want real culture, don’t stay in a resort or in any of the towns in the Northwest corner of Malta.  The reason Malta was so perfect is because I’m a beach person and Andrew is a sight seeing guy, so we could do both! Try to find a traditional Maltese decorated apartment:

Meatless meandering…

The days of vegetarian slop (aka cous cous with some type of stew over it) are over!  Vegetarian restaurants all over the world are serving really creative, fresh dishes that are well presented and leave you full.  Our top choices that we’ve visited are not just our top choices for vegetarian food, but our top choices period (full stop). We didn’t decide one day to be vegetarian.  In fact, I still don’t call myself a vegetarian.  When I was younger I declared myself veggie and I would sneak meat when no one was looking.  Now, I simply don’t feel like eating it.

The evolution of meals for us was a slow process:

1.  food poisoning which may have been from Malta or from the Kebab shop down the road.  We don’t know and we don’t care.  The bottom line is that chicken processing and distribution is unsafe and nasty.  After spending four days hugging the toilet and laying on the floor to try and get rid of our body aches, we haven’t touched chicken since.  (Except twice on accident)

2.  Cooking meat at home was becoming yucky.  You need multiple cutting boards and you really need a dishwasher and there’s meat juice and salmonella and e coli and all that.  So then we stopped buying meat to cook, including fish.

3.  The Health at Every size approach mindful eating.  I stopped feeling like I wanted meat and started getting excited about the flavour of veggies.  If you think about it, meat doesn’t taste like anything except for what it’s cooked in, while vegetables have exciting flavors all their own.

4.  The grocers down the street.  I hate spending money at the giant chain at the end of our block, but I love going into the independent grocer (just a little bit further) to get vegetables that don’t come wrapped in plastic.  We usually walk out of there with two bags full of veggies and only £30 lighter for the week.

5.  The second bout of food poisoning.  Yes, twice in one month.  How is it possible?  Well it has become clear to me that this country isn’t able to manage the preparation and distribution of food in a safe manner and therefore, I’m avoiding it.

Acorn Vegetarian Restaurant 

Starter at

Starter at “Acorn” in Bath, England

This is a an amazing place, right in the heart of Bath.  Ever since we visited Bath in November, we have wanted to go back just for this restaurant.  It is quiet, cozy, and super flavourful.  The nice thing about this place is that the dishes are so visually beautiful and complicated, you really feel like you can’t make it at home.  Also, we’ve bought their cookbook and it’s true: you can’t replicate these recipes at home.

Rebar Modern Food

Scrumpy at Rebar Modern Food in Victoria, B.C.

Scrumpy at Rebar Modern Food in Victoria, B.C.

We first discovered this restaurant in 2011 when we went on an epic journey to Vancouver Island (stay tuned for our upcoming post).  I think we originally discovered this in our Frommer’s guidebook and thought we might try it for something healthier than the road trip food we had been eating.  What a revelation!  Avocado, seeds, beautiful summer squashes, and asparagus adorned the large house salad.  A full menu of delicious, vegetarian and pescatarian dishes was something we hadn’t seen in a while.  This is when we realized that the days of the Moosewood Cookbooks (blah!) were gone, and eating vegetables for what they are, not what they can mimic or replace is awesome!  Andrew returns to this restaurant every year while on tour.

Earthy (for you and your meat eating friends!)

“Earthy” in Edinburgh, Scotland

Our friends took us to this cafe for afternoon coffee and cake, but it’s on our return-to list.  As we sat enjoying our Bakewell Tart, we saw beautiful vegetarian and meat based foods pass us left and right.  Their grocery attached to the restaurant is a great place to buy foods for a picnic or a snack.

Tell us where your favorite vegetarian restaurants are!

Krakow, Poland in December

We had an amazing trip to Poland’s second-largest city in the winter, enjoying the amazing vibe of the main square and the dark bars of Kazimierz as well as the famous Wawel Castle and the incredible Wieliczka salt mine.

IMG_2619Salt Mine:  On our last day in Krakow we decided at the last minute to take the bus a short distance out of town to the salt mine.  We hadn’t really heard about it from anyone, but saw a brochure for it in the our airBnB flat and read a short description in the Frommer’s.  We were so glad we went!  An apathetic tour guide led us through an underground magical land with chapels, a cathedral, lakes, and streams carved out by devout miners.  Is it difficult for you to picture this?  Well just go!  You won’t regret it for a second.  Claustrophobes not to worry:  You walk down forty flights of stairs to get to the beginning of the mine and it’s very open, airy, and spacious down there!

IMG_2519Kazimierz:  This now semi-revitalized work-in-progress former Jewish Ghetto about 20 minutes walk from the Rynek Glowny is a must see in Krakow.  We first wondered along some of the streets until we found a place called Bagelmama which served us amazing bagels with lox and cream cheese.  Then we headed to the next door Jewish Museum where were learned about Jews in Poland from the times of Galicia to the present day.  This is a complex and thoughtful museum so plan to spend at least one hour there.

IMG_2550While walking around Kazimierz you get the overwhelming sense that you’re in the wrong place.  The buildings are half dilapidated and there was not another soul in sight, until we would duck in to the frequent cosy bar or coffee shop to find amazing desserts, cakes, and homemade vodkas.  This area is very controversial because it is now becoming very hipstery/gentrified and there is little acknowledgement of the marginalization of people here (what’s new?) but it is worth seeing for yourself and deciding what it’s all about.

Massolit Books:  We heard about this bookstore from our Frommer’s Guide, and went there to discover a very quaint bookshop.  Try finding it on your own because it near the river walk and down a few windy back streets in a part of Krakow you might not know is there.  We ended up buying a book called “The essential Guide to Being Polish” which we amused ourselves with over coffee.

IMG_2559 Smak!:  Bar Smak is just a regular small bistro outside of the Rynek Glowny near our AirBnB flat.  It wasn’t really amazing or anything, but it’s worth mentioning that you can go into any place like this and get a meal for the equivalent of £2.50!  Our favorite was called MilkBar in the Rynek Glowny where we had amazing food in a clean space for extremely cheap.  Sidenote: Milkbar is the name of the Soviet Era places where you would line up to get food. Milk indicates No Alcohol.

IMG_2608Nowa Huta:  Speaking of Soviet Era, if you really want to have a unique experience try and figure out how to get to the communist centralized development of Nowa Huta by public transport.  If you arrive without killing your travel mate, you’ll have a semi-enjoyable time walking around and seeing the block of houses where people still live today.  You can read about the history of the village and you can even visit the old Steel Mill where people worked.  We did not go to the mill but we saw it standing atop a hill overlooking the village like some type of sinister lord over looking his minions.

IMG_2468The Bugler:  Rynek Glowny is one of the most fairytale like places I have ever seen.  We returned here time and again to just wander the back streets and most important, listen for the Bugler’s song at every hour.  The best part is, he waves to the people below when he finishes his song, and we waved back along with other onlookers!  It wasn’t like a quick excited wave, more like a slow wave as if he’s saying goodbye forever.  It makes sense, because in the 12th century, the town Bugler got hit in the throat by an arrow mid-note.  To this day, the Bugler cuts short his last note in memory of this horrible incident.

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